Day 24 - 2 to 5 Dec 09

We headed south from Ensenada on our way through some lush farm country that continues to accent the fact that if you have water you can have everything in this land. Of course there was some dry desolate and dirty countryside and towns but this is Mexico. Our first night after Ensenada was a little off the beaten track on Bahia San Quintan @ a little resort hanging on by the skin of its teeth. I called it 'Fast Eddie's'. Walking Skeena in Mexico will obviously be a challenge. She must be the Sophia Loren of the dog world as every Mexican male dog flocks to her like a magnet. The spectacular display of cacti fascinates us so we had to stop and take a few pictures. JD discovered just how deadly the points of the Yucca plant are when one jumped out and bit him. Skeena spends her days on the road panting her doggy breath all over us with the occasional nap. I still can't shake the image of her sitting smack in the middle of the back seat, front paws spread widely apart and watching every pitch and turn when we climed up to Hurrah Pass around Moab. She is turning into quite the intrepid traveller living for the times that we stop and she can burn around with total abandon in the sand like a puppy.

San Quentin to Santo Rosalilita was where we had our first major misadventure. The wretched wind has continued to haunt us and ended up working against us when we met a transport, had a big wind gust, and hit a leaning cement road marker post with the back support arm of the awning. The big bang made us think we'd blown a tire until Susie noticed the cement post we'd hit cascading into the weeds. Stopping to take a look at the damage created an instant garage for some little Mexican fellow with a flat tire and no tools to change it. JD had to fix his flat before our dilema could be solved. While JD bungee strapped what was left of the awning to the trailer Susie walked back the 500 meters to pick up the pieces of the support arm. This was no call for duct tape. As bad as it is, it could have been a lot worse. With a little Mexican ingenuity and a few parts it will come back together.

We stopped for the night on the beach at Santa Rosalalita where we met up with more BC travellers - some surfers from Victoria. After helping them out of a pinch because their camp stove calved on them they envited us over for a few beers. Imagine how beautiful it was to sit on the beach listening to the rolling waves laughing and sharing stories - in English - with fellow travellers. We both just love the people that cross your paths when travelling. After a beautiful walk along the beach in the morning the wind blew us out of there. The sand blasting we endured gives a whole new meaning to a skin peel.

So at last we're in San Ignacio! It is a veritable oasis in the desert complete with healthy groves of palm trees. The area was hit hard by a hurricane earlier this year and evidence of damage is still present. However, at the Ignacio Springs B & B they are back up to speed missing only one of the rental yurts. Connecting with long lost cousins is very sweet indeed. Terry and Garry are excellent hosts and getting to know one another is very rewarding. Exploring the area is a must and on the agenda for the next few days.

Day 23 - 1 Dec 09 Ensenada AhhEEE!

We went on a whirlwind tour on this day with Cindy and Richard Allan formerly of Revelstoke now of Ensenada. First stop was the fish market and mallecon and lunch at a corner taco stand in the fish market - world class fish and shrimp tacos. It was a sensory overload for sights, tastes and especially smells. Next up was an exclusive tour of the Riviera Casino that was built by Al Capone in the 1930's. It must have cost a bundle to build even back then. The snoozing fellow in the chair was a worker @ the casino. And what did you do on your coffee break? The furniture store we toured after was located in an old Bordello. Exclusive is an understatement like the $800 bench Cindy and I sat on out front or the $4,200 king sized bed. You would need castle sized rooms to house that kind of furniture. How do you describe our trip down "happy street" - breathtaking, stomach in the troat, Aahheee! And yes Richard can make his Kia fly! La Bufadora was next - literally translated 'bull's snort'. Picked up some crabs from a Mexican fast food stand, think it was called McCrabs - some disassembly required. Gobbled some of the delectable crab meat while admiring the view from Cindy & Richard's first home appropriately named 'the cliff house'. Due to the low tide and calm ocean La Bufadora had no snort this day and the tourist market was all but closed because of the lack of touristas. A quick stop for groceries concluded our day. A heartfelt thank you goes out to Richard and Cindy for taking time out of their busy days to host us. It was a blessing! We also came away with a huge appreciation for their mission work with Victory Missions Baja.

Days 19 - 22 Goodbye Yuma Hello Mexico

Where oh where have the days gone? We originally wondered why this Yuma campsite was so cheap. It turns out we were on the flight path for all the crop dusters in the area. They don't start flying until it is dark out. So the first night they flew over we weren't sure whether we should be ducking for cover from flying machine guns or what. We quickly realized why this was a discount campground. The up side is that there are no bugs. Not sure if we should worry about growing a third eye or limb in the middle of our foreheads or not and maybe the increase in facial hair for both of us might be linked to the crop dusting as well. We said good-bye to our new found friends at the campground and headed for the Mexican border.

Had a minor flap at the border crossing when we couldn't find the trailer insurance/registration papers. No matter how hard we tried we couldn't convince the border guard that our boat trailer insurance was for our travel trailer. Eventually Susie found the papers and we proceeded on our merry way, turned left instead of right and got lost in no man's land way out in the country for 2 hours. Coulda bought lots of cheap corn, but be darned if we could find the freeway we wanted. When we retraced our steps following the trail of corn we'd left we finally got off on the right road. Climbing up the steep mountain passes was reminiscent of the road to Jerome - very steep, very twisty, and very narrow. JD was so glad we'd had that trial run to Jerome. NOT! As the day wore on and we grew weary we started looking in earnest for the 2 separate places that were recommended to us for camping overnight. Unfortunately neither place was open for business. So our first night in Mexico was spent on the edge of some little town, Ignacio Zaragoza, right on the edge of an archaeological heritage site. Skeena acquainted herself with the local horses cows goats and ostriches growling to let them know how tough she was. The absolute solitude was a welcome reprieve from crop duster central.

The next morn dawned blue bird skies and glorious sunshine - seems to be a repeating pattern. JD thought there was ice on the window of the trailer but it was just a Skeena nose print. Before we left Yuma we spent an entire day washing and waxing the Travelaire making it look like new. After mud bogging down the new freeway construction into Ensenada we wondered why we had bothered. The beautiful lush wine country on the Ensenada side of the mountains put us in mind of the Okanagan. Susie is finding it overwhelming not knowing enough of the language to interpret street signs and directions etc. However there are enough people that do speak English and will help you out. It just seems much more respectful if you make an attempt to speak their language in their country. Wandered around in the tourista section, found an internet cafe and a retired US war vet that entertained us with plenty of stories.

Reconnecting with some awesome Revelstoke friends that live here working with Baja Victory Missions is an added bonus of our trip. Richard came to our campground at the Hotel California & RV Park and guided us to their home which sits oh so high on one of the hilltops overlooking the entire city and Bahia Todo Santos. Hugs from people we know that speak the same language felt so sweet. They have graciously offered to tour us around Ensenada tomorrow.

Day 17 & 18 Shopping in Yuma and Algodones

No! We are not shopping our way across the continent but there were a few things that we had to get before heading further south one of which was a reliable generator. This is the third generator we've purchased this year. We can only hope three is the charm. We finally found a Yamaha 2000 which is supposed to be as good & quiet as a Honda but is a few dollars cheaper. We then decided to wander into the Walmart Mega Super Store and were google eyed at the prices and selection of merchandise. Susie had to try a $3/bottle of wine - which is actually quite good. JD pondered the beer prices yet again and decided the Busch and Milwaukee were running neck and neck for being the cheapest. Good judgement overcame valour and he stuck with the Coors although a little more expensive. Oh yes and the food prices were awesome too.

Going to Algodones was a quick reminder of the assault on our senses. The sights, smells, noise, colours and people quickly remind you of what is Mexico. We hunted down the glasses place a both of us were fitted for new glasses. While they were grinding the coke bottles we ventured out for lunch and to arrange our 6 month tourist visas. Susie was pleasantly surprised when the fellow worked over her old reading glasses and sunglasses and got them fitting like they've never fit before. The grand total for 2 pair of progressive glasses was $188.

We should mention that our wardrobe now consists of T-shirts and shorts a far cry from the wool sweaters and lined blue jeans we left Canada in. Surprisingly we haven't missed the rain a bit. Muck! Muck! We will be leaving Yuma Sunday morn to make the grand entrance to Mexico. As the only thing lacking at our economical ($8.50/night) RV park oasis is the internet we are forced to find it where ever we can and preferable free. Thankfully we were told about the public library access and that is where I am right now. It occured to us today that it is taking us longer to get to Mexico than most people's holidays! Yes we certainly are enjoying ourselves!

We know you are wondering how Skeena is fairing on this adventure so some of the pictures for today are of the Golden Retriever bird dog overcoming her phobia of duck decoys. We're so very proud of her! Ha! Ha!

Day 16 - 24 Nov 09 On to Yuma

We did a short little run this am before packing up camp and heading south to Yuma. It was quite funny to note how many times we got the thumbs up from passing motorists. When you realize we are 20 - 30 years younger than most people living here I guess it is cause for a thumbs up. The jaunt from Quartzite to Yuma takes you through 2 separate training grounds for the US army where we are surmising some of the training for the hot middle eastern countries is done. Signs are posted everywhere that there is no admittance to these sites. Some of the equipment looked like it would be a lot of fun for blowing saguaros out of the ground.

With straight lines and highway ahead of us Susie offered to drive for the first time on this trip. JD certainly enjoyed the break and calmly sat there as the rig wiggled on the uneven road surface and blew around in the wind. What is with this stinking wind?! As we approached the city limits of Yuma it was astounding to note the varied green, lush fields and the occasional purple one spread out on either side of the highway as well as the full water canals. They both happened simultaneously. It was such a stark contrast to the arid desert we had just travelled through. The canal system is absolutely amazing and criss crosses everywhere. JD can now understand how tempting it was for his Uncle Wayne to water ski the canals being towed by a pickup.

As we eased to a stop at the first traffic light Susie noticed the brake controller on the trailer wasn't responding. While JD was out checking the connection a fellow in a big flat deck Dodge called him over and asked if we were lost or needed a place to camp. Anyways, JD had quite the conversation with him and the result was that we did an about face and headed back about 5 miles whence we came to Mike's private RV park. He has developed a small park in his recomissioned gravel pit complete with water, sewer and power. It is a little oasis complete with a duck pond where dogs, quads and motor bikes are all welcome. This is unusual in this part of the world to have all of those in combination in a park. As we drove up we couldn't help but notice 3 other BC RV plates in the park. I jokingly asked Mike, "Do you hand select only BC people for your park?" We finished the day off around the campfire with a beer or two getting acquainted with one another. Although BC is a huge province it is amazing the connections we could make between mutual friends and acquaintances in Smithers and Revelstoke. What also amazed us was how all the dogs got along, 2 chocolate Labs, one black Lab, one yellow Lab, an Anatolian Shepard and our little Skeena. There were no tiffs and no leash laws to abide which is why we think the dogs got along so well.

Day 16 - 23 Nov 09 Jeep Envy!

Quartzite was the biggest flea market we've ever been to! you had your bargain basement sell outs of everything imaginable and we didn't even go to the Antique and Collectibles sites. They are slowly getting geared up for when all the big shows start happening in January. What impressed us most were all the rocks, gems and beads. Of those there are plenty and Susie managed to make a few purchases. What was also interesting to note was the number of people dry camping for miles and miles all around Quartzite some way out in the desert. Apparently there is a combined water and sewer truck that visits each of the campers delivering sewer and sucking water or something. it would be a neat place to visit with a quad, dirt bike or Jeep and spend some time poking around in the desert. This brings us to JD's severe Jeep envy. We've included a smattering of pictures to show the variety of such we have seen.

Day 15 - From Pine trees to Cactus Trees

It was -4 Celsius when we awoke in Flagstaff this am. We were on the road by 7:30. First we went down a long winding road then up a very long winding road and down again on a long winding road and then up again and now we're down again. Suffice it to say Susie is no longer allowed to choose the route we take. JD's nerves and the truck transmission won't permit it. The roads looked straight on the 1/1,000,000,000 scale we have on our maps but proved otherwise. The elevation gains and losses would also have been helpful to know ahead of time. But we survived and arrived in Quartzite to 22 Celsius weather. The highlight of the day was our stop in Sedona. It proved to be an eclectic, artistic, touristy community that we wouldn't mind exploring further. It was interesting to note the contrast to the way tourists are managed in Sedona versus Moab. There was much more emphasis on encouraging people to explore on their own in Moab. Whereas Sedona seemed to want to channel everyone into some sort of guided Jeep or Hummer tour. They proved quite persistent as well. At one point we thought we were in Mexico talking to the condo salesmen.