Exploring Mulege

Love the architecture - circa 1910.

I love the boganvilla!

Awe! Come on dad give me your hat!

Chili cook-off in the Mulege plaza.

These junior firemen had the best tasting chili as far as we were concerned.

This one escaped the pot!

Of course the beer garden was poplular - just like back home!

Some of the friends we're clammed up when they arrived at the party but after a little steam they opened up and proved to be quite popular.

If you've been to Mulege you know what a picturesque setting it is. Being located on a river estuary it has plentiful palm trees and beauty or it did have before the rain of the last two hurricanes blazed a path to the ocean. Mulege today is not the same as it was say ten years ago. But it is the indomitable spirit of the people that live here that you have to admire whether Spanish or English speaking. Signs of rebuilding are all around and it is reclaiming its beauty. However the For Sale signs are plentiful too.

The sense of community surrounds you whether it's walking down the street kibitzing with the vendors trying to sell you T-shirts, blankets, pottery, etc. or roaming around the chili cook-off yakking with all the gringos. It continues to warm our hearts and we thoroughly enjoy how a bunch of like minded people can be thrown together in a foreign country and fall into such warm friendships. We are all united in our love of the Baja and the Mexican people. So, not only is Skeena collecting friends wherever she goes so are we. After our trip to the chili cook-off yesterday we took a spin to our favourite clamming beach and had a big enough hall of clams to host another impromtu dinner party Baja style. We both really like this style of informal entertaining!

Speaking of Skeena, she is still struggling along with a very pronounced limp. We're giving her glucosamine/condroitin and hoping this will help. She's eating normally and is still happy and perky so maybe it just needs time to heal. Meanwhile she's livin the dream along with us.

We're pulling up the anchor from Playa El Coyote tomorrow and spending a night in town at an RV resort - housekeeping things like flushing the tanks and doing laundry. you know what it's like when you live in your RV? Then we're headed to San Lucas Cove, north of Mulege, for a day or two to check out the fishing and beach combing there.

Island Hopping

Birds of a feather.

The illusive Blue Footed Boobies.

Brown Boobies

Bummin around with our friends.

Sea slug anyone?

Playa El Coyote is a white sand beach full of awesome people, some of whom have camped here for many years. Once you’ve been here a couple of nights the real world fades away like a shooting star on a Baja night. It was an exceptional day of discovery leap frogging from island to island and beach to beach collecting friends as we went. Each beach has its own unique character with treasures to be unearthed. One beach may have unusual shell collecting. The next is a bird sanctuary where we spotted, Brown Boobies, Cormorants, a Tri-coloured Heron, various sea gulls, Brown Pelicans, and a colony of the illusive Blue Footed Boobies. The final beach stopping off point was a veritable gold mine of clams. As we approached the beach we were curious as to the posture of the inhabitants. They stood thigh deep in water, arms buried up to their pits, butts in the air, combing the bottom for clams. It reminded us of a hockey game where someone loses a contact. It didn’t take us long to assume the same posture combing for clams. Or as our American friends say, “Catching Crawdads”! Susie felt like we were all a bunch of overgrown kids playing hooky from school enjoying the moment. Some of the more adventurous donned their snorkel gear and dove down for the chocolate clams which were about 5-6 feet deep. All in all this was a capital way to spend a day in the Baja sunshine exploring new territory and making more wonderful friends.


Remember those clams we helped dig up? Well they spawned an impromptu beach party for about 20 of us back at Playa El Coyote. It was a yummy happy hour/dinner for many of us socializing around a pot of freshly steamed clams. We now know how to cook fresh clams and it’s ‘dead easy’. After yesterdays experience we’re not convinced ‘clams have legs’. A lovely cap to the evening was a viewing of some very unique footage of an octopus on an off shore island as well as numerous sting rays doing their thing in the crystal clear water. An added bonus to this camping spot is having our own resident naturalist to explain the finer details of the marine animal and bird habitat native to this area.

Loreto to Play El Coyote

Farmer's Market extraordinaire in Loreto.

We know this looks like 'lost in Mexico' but we actually knew where we were going, to another beautiful beach.

See, we told you. Isn't this another beautiful beach?

Hacienda courtyard hotel.

Should we camp here?

Or should we camp here? Yea! Let's camp here!

And here we are - 'Home Sweet Home' - on Playa El Coyote. We just have to watch out for high tide!

Jonathon!

If Susie's not feeding the dogs or cows she's feeding the sea birds.

Ahhhh! This means it must be happy hour!

Did we already tell you how enjoyable Loreto was? Let’s just say that it is a place to be revisited time and again. There is a fantastic farmers market held in the big Arroyo (dry creek bed) every Sunday where you can buy everything such as; cookies, empanadas, huge pieces of fried pork rind (a Mexican delicacy so we’re told) fresh sea food, live or dead goats, locally grown fresh fruit & vegetables, used or new clothing, jewellery, tires or other car parts, etc. (lots of stuff you’d never see in the Revelstoke or Smithers Farmers Market). It goes on all day and you could wander through visiting and buying until your heart was content. But there was exploring to do.

After a trip south to Nopolo we realize that some developers have no scruples and deserve to have gone bankrupt in the recent recession. In contrast to beautiful, historic Loreto, this is a planned community built around a gorgeous golf course but put us in mind of a company town run-a-muck in pastel colours. The area is so far over built they’ll be hard pressed to sell all of the sardine type condos by the year 2020. Where you would park your car let alone a boat is a big mystery. To shake the funk that shrouded us after this viewing we visited a deserted beach (yes, another one) on the Sea of Cortez, where JD braved the cool water for another snorkel. He was minding his own business when he had the distinct feeling he was being watched. A couple of eyes were burning holes in his undersides from the sand, 3 feet below. When he noticed the barb on Mr. Stingray’s tail snorkelling lost its luster and he headed for the beach, JD that is. So we spent our final night at Loreto Shores RV Park listening to the roosters and guard dogs compete for audio attention.

Driving north along the snakes back road that hugs the Sea of Cortez we were definitely reminded of the Mediterranean. Maybe you can’t tell by the pictures but it is some drop dead gorgeous country. Our destination was a little cove where some of our camping friends were headed, El Coyote. If you’ve ever wanted to live on the ocean this would be a great place to try it out for size. The tide is very insignificant which allows us to be pretty much on the edge of the water. We think we’ve found our version of Baja paradise.

Loreto

Mission of Nuestra Senora de Loreto Concho.

Quaint cobble stone street scene looking back at the mission.

Can it get any more picture postcard than this?

Hotel Posada del las Flores has a roof top pool that you stand under in the courtyard.

A working loom for weaving blankets and small rugs.

It's for rent - any takers?

One of the most irritating thorns in our sides throughout the whole Baja - noise polution at its worst!

What would the area be without its beaches and palm trees?

Waiting for the tsunami.

We find ourselves spending a second night in Loreto. We fell in love with the Baja all over again by cruising around the historic streets of Loreto. JD spent a few hours patching our mountain bike tire tubes again - don't you just hate all those thorny things that puncture tires in this part of the world?! We've tried to head off disaster by injecting 'slime' into Susies' tire tubes. We'll see how effective it works down here. It is so much more relaxing to cruise around town on a mountain bike than in a 3/4 ton long box truck. Bumping over the topes and cobble stones is so much easier to bear on a bike than a big truck.

This community has an old world feel to it and was at one time the center of the religious world for all of the Californias which included the present day state of California. The main mission church is still in use at the centre of town - built circa 1700s. There of course is a huge population of ex-patriots living here, both US and Canadian citizens and a very welcoming group of people they are. The only disapointment is that the beaches are made up of silty dark sand and pebbles which you can't help but bring half of it home with you. The fishing boats are coming in with a number of yellow tail and the military is even showing its presence by checking anglers as they come off the boats. Our Conservation Officers will have to step up in the armament department if they want to keep up with these guys.

We've managed to meet some wonderful people in our travels. Some people we will probably never see again but have made our lives brighter by crossing our paths. Some we hope to meet with again as we meander northward. One couple we have met suggested we stick around for the farmers' market which happens, on Sunday mornings in the big arroyo that dissects the town. Of course with our love of fresh produce we won't miss that. After the market, a scouting trip to Nopolo may result or a meander northward to Bahia Concepcion.

We do not mean to make light of the tsunami warning issued for the Pacific Rim after the major earthquake in Chile but we have to reassure our family and friends that we are in little if any danger here on the Sea of Cortez from that threat.

Heading North - EIYEE!

Bahia Balandra located north of La Paz

Tecolate also north of La Paz

The view from Villa Pairaso where we had our last supper in La Ventana

This is for you mom. Hibiscus grow like a weed down here.

Not sure of the name of this one - help me out mom!

Check out the blooms on the tubby tree.

More pretty flowers for my mom.

It was with sadness that we bid farewell to our new found friends in La Ventana/El Sargento yesterday and started our journey northward. We spent many an hour contemplating life under the palms in those beautiful communities trying to figure out how to make this a regular thing in our lives. The perfect balance would be to spend 8 months down here and 4 months in Canada. Don't panic mom! This isn't a reality...yet. Of course the biggest obstacle would be in financing such an adventure. JD keeps telling me, "Don't throw obstacles up for us! Just think of ways we can make it happen." My hubby the great philosopher. But you know, there is some merit to what he says. How many people do you know out there that stagnate in their daily lives because they are afraid to take a chance, step out of the main stream or the boat, get off the repetitive treadmill and just DO IT?

We went out to Peurto Adolfo Lopez Mateos on Bahia Magdalena today looking at going to go on a whale hunt - pictures and things. What were you thinking? Apparently there aren't many whales out there right now because the water temperature is too cool in the Pacific. This strikes us as strange because the Sea of Cortez has been unseasonably warm for this time of year. If we're going to spend $75 US on a whale trip we'd expect to actually see whales. Hopefully by the time we get up to Bahia San Ignacio we will have better luck on a whale hunt (watching of course-what were you thinking). We were saddened to view how incredibly poor the community appears to be (Mateos). It was hammered with the last couple of hurricanes and is obviously still trying to recover. They are prepared to service hoards of tourists but the tourists just aren't here this year. Where is everybody? We're here!

After a couple of nights at the Missiones RV park in Constitucion we are headed north and back over to the Sea of Cortez side. Peurto Escondito or Loreto will be a stopping off point for tomorrow night. Adios until then.

El Triunfo and the Best Tasting Bread in Baja!

The Cathedral in El Triunfo dates back to 1700's and is still in use today.

Life sized horse made out of palm fronds and bark. You too could own this.

Lovely little restaurant where we had Mexican style pizza.

The dog that came for lunch - the owners Coursevor?

Wood fired pizza oven at the restaurant.

Lovely cobble stone streets. Notice the throngs of people jossling Susie as she walks along.

The other entrance to the restaurant  El Triunfo.

Chili peppers drying in the sun. Coming to a mercado near you.

A short half hour drive down the road took us to a beautiful metropolis, population 327, of El Triunfo. This was a historic gold mining town with the well preserved mission—still in use to this day—dating back to the 1700’s. On recommendation from friends we sought out the Cafe El Triunfo for a decidedly different tasting but yummy pizza cooked in a wood fired oven that looks like it has survived since the 1700’s. This cafe also produces the best tasting bread we have encountered in all of the Baja. It is a sour dough artisan loaf that has a compact and heavy weight to it but the flavour is fantastic. It is also the only purple bread we’ve ever eaten—something to do with the nuts used in it. The town of El Triunfo is an awesome example of old Mexico with cobble stone streets and locally made brick buildings and walls. Unfortunately we chose lunch over visiting the Musica Museo and it was closed for siesta when we tried to visit it after we had eaten. It just means we will have to go back to this charming town. A wander through the tumbled down mining ruins left us wishing the bricks and remaining walls could speak to us and in English. We’re sure the tales they would tell of the towns gold mining hey day would be fascinating.

So, we finally had our first shake down by the Mexican military. This is the first time we didn’t have our faithful dog with us and we are truly convinced that is the only reason why they stopped us. Normally we are quickly waved through when they spot our vicious guard/cattle dog sitting proudly between us on the back seat. In perfect English the commander politely identified himself and told us they needed to look in our car. As they were in possession of all the AK-47’s we gladly stepped aside and let them take a look. We’re sure they were utterly disappointed when the only things of interest they could find were our clean laundry and the new boogey board and polka dot sun umbrella in the dry box. As neither of these are deemed contraband they waved us on and wished us beunos dias. Despite the foreign concept of being pulled over by a bunch of guys with big guns it is not in the least disturbing as we recognize these are the guys keeping things on the up and up. They are not out to harass the tourists but are there for our protection. They are after people involved in the drug trade and the smuggling industry.

Feeding Strays and Muertos Bay

It looked like they were waiting in formation - for what I don't know.

Lunch with the trillionaires at Muertos Bay.

Part of the old Spanish warf @ Muertos Bay.

Mexican Stand off!

Mom what are you doing feeding the enemy?

And I'm telling you - don't ever come back!

When we first arrived at Jodi and Mike`s property we gamely took over feeding the stray dogs that showed up at least once a day looking for anything we wanted to throw their way. Unfortunately the stray dogs quit coming around. So we took on feeding the other most common four legged critter that is constantly roaming in search of food—anything you can throw their way, the vacas (cows). Skeena did not like the idea of mom throwing good food to the cows even if it was vegetables. As it is she hates the cows because of their bells that jangle all night long keeping her and her masters awake. We watched one of these purebred, Mexican Brahma/Jersey/Hereford/Gernsey/Charlais/Chihuahua cows carefully insert its head through the small gap in the fence where the dog food dish was and snuffle around the empty dish. Obviously it has done that before because it knew just how far it could reach without hanging its horns up in the fence. I wish we could have caught that on film.

In search of a new adventure we headed out to the other side of Lighthouse point to try and pin down an excellent snorkelling beach discovered by some of our friends in the campground. The sea was too rough for snorkelling that day but we think we found the spot and will return on a calm wind day. What we did find is an excellent restaurant where you least expect it at Muertos Bay. As all of you Spanish aficionados will know Muertos means dead. How can you develop a multi-trillion dollar resort/golf course when your name is Muertos. So typical of Mexico, it was renamed ‘Bay of Dreams’. There used to be an old Spanish wharf in this protected bay as it was the only one of its type between Los Frailles and La Paz. Some of intricate stone/brick work was amazing in its detail. We partook in an awesome lunch at the beach house restaurant and hobb knobbed with some of the local colour that either had a house in the area or were moored in the calm bay out-waiting the 3 day blow on the Sea of Cortez. All in all it was a very pleasant way to spend the day. We will return again to take in some snorkelling and have another meal at the restaurant.